"When Expectations Start Out on the Wrong Foot..."
Dear FF&B,
The 4th of July is an interesting holiday for me. Half of the time – on the even years (2008, 2010…), I spend it with extended family during our reunions. There are fireworks, talent shows, late-night card games, and all sorts of togetherness. The rest of the time it’s a crapshoot: rooftop parties, camping, or even quite evenings at home.
This past weekend I was down in San Jose with my family, enjoying pools and barbecues and a lot of joking around. But early on the 4th I woke to reflect back on how last year I missed seeing my immediate and extended family. I was in Zambia and had just returned from a two and a half day jaunt into the field to locate and interview charcoal sellers. I went to the local backpackers’ where not a single American was in sight and I felt slightly sad for some reason.
I say this particular holiday is interesting because instead of getting super-patriotic, it reminds me of community and what I like about all cultures around the world. (At least it did this past weekend.) In my mind, Christmas and Thanksgiving are about family and either forgiveness or remembering what you appreciate... but this holiday is about what community CAN be. Barbecues and pools with your neighbors and our choices to be willingly close to those around us in the world.
But enough of my random philosophies.
********************************************************************************
Rwanda is a small country and there is certain uniformity to it. Even so, nothing can quite approach the cleanliness of Kigali in my mind. I honestly can’t remember a piece of trash on the downtown roads. In comparison, Gisenyi is a more modest town. Some of the roads – particularly those in the upscale lakeside area – are well-maintained and made of asphalt. Meanwhile, the roads near the main market and taxi park (where most of the population seems to reside near) are made of dirt and are congested with traffic. They are fairly tidy, but a little less so than Kigali. And if you are a pedestrian in this area (as Jess and I were), you MUST watch out: the trucks are dodging the ditches, the cars are dodging the trucks, the motorcycles are dodging the cars, the scooters are dodging the motorcycles, the bicycles are dodging the scooters… and (you guessed it), the pedestrians are dodging all of the above. So if you ever are traveling there without transportation… considered yourself forewarned!
Jean Bosco of the Red Cross had arranged for us to meet with the Executive Secretary of the Sector of Rugerero (Emmanuel) upon our arrival. In addition, we had a community meeting set up with the whole village even before we had a chance to meet the cooperative leaders or membership (or even Jean Bosco) in private. We sat at the front of the main assembly room at the Sector Offices, alongside Jean Bosco, the Executive Secretary, and a key District Police Officer (Hubert). I don’t think either Jess or I expected this (at least I didn’t), and it felt a little weird to be on “public display” before we could get a sense of what was happening in the community, but we did just fine. The important thing was to listen to all the translations of what any community leaders said to the general public (such as Jean Bosco, Emmanuel, or Hubert) and try to figure out what expectations (if any) were being magnified. This way, we could be conscientious and forthright in our future communications.
However, there was one thing which this process helped highlight to both of us: so many benefactors had donated things to Rugerero that you could feel the unspoken expectations that our research would result in similar benefaction.
Now, don’t get me wrong: I don’t think this was conscious by any means. Who would get upset if you were in the area asking for small-to-modest amounts of time to understand their process in return for some valuable recommendations? But so much money or equipment had been donated in the past that their only recent experience was that foreigners provide direct financial/physical resources (such as solar panels, sun flower oil presses, or thousands in money capital). Or at least that’s the only conclusion I could draw because 3 times in our first few meetings we were told that what the cooperative really needed was a briquetting machine. Never mind that we were students whose grant barely covered our travel costs, nor had we yet studied their process to determine their costs or most dire issues.
Throughout the rest of the trip, our dealings in the Rugerero Sector required us to constantly combat these unspoken expectations, both directly and indirectly. Persuasion, simple declarations that we could not offer money or equipment, forthright refusal to train under the uneconomic circumstances (but with diplomatic explanations), and extreme patience in trying to collect valid data were our weapons. It seemed easy for us to make clear both our financial constraints and our intent to focus on knowledge transfer. Even so, we combated these expectations at every turn. We were told twice (once by Emmanuel and once by a translator) to treat our financial data with a grain of salt because the cooperative (perhaps unintentionally) might inflate their stated costs in expectation that we would still give money (despite our direct declarations), and were only figuring out how much to give. But as any good interviewer who has been in the field knows, we can only hope that our patience and willingness to ask for the same question several different ways helped us triangulate the best data available…
******************************************************************************
Our original intent in Gisenyi was to view COTRAPAE’s operations and perhaps do technical/process training – preferably to a new region that could use COTRAPAE as experienced partners for learning purposes. While it was true that COTRAPAE likely needed some refreshers, we hypothesized that it would be best for COTRAPAE to train others, as there was little in the way of follow-up that would be available in the near future. Therefore, helping “train the trainers” would reinforce good techniques and maybe help develop a new dissemination model for this type of charcoal production. The only thing we wanted to do first was determine whether the economics made it at least feasible for profit-making (otherwise, the cooperative was better off using its money and people in other endeavors).
One problem: we found out that COTRAPAE was losing money making charcoal. This was not a matter of efficiency; the purchase of raw materials to make a day’s worth of agri-charcoal cost more than buying a day’s worth of wood charcoal… even before paying someone for their time.
In one way, this was a huge blow to our collective psyche. We had been prepped and eager to help disseminate a good alternative to wood charcoal production. But we weren’t prepared to do it at the expense of someone’s livelihood.
In the end, Jess and I consoled each other with the reminder that this is EXACTLY what we came to find out: under what conditions it was economically feasible to produce agri-charcoal in Rwanda. This country needed to make sure it encouraged SUSTAINABLE activities (environmentally, socially, and financially). The fact was that the people who needed to find income-generating activities the most – the genocide survivors living in the resettlement village of Rugerero – were at a distinct disadvantage because they did not own any land… and therefore did not have cheap access to the raw material needed to make the charcoal. A big briquetting machine would only COMPOUND the problem by making them lose money faster. COTRAPAE would need to determine how to reduce its cost structure if it wanted to continue this business.
And that’s how we came to the conclusion that COTRAPAE didn’t need technical training (though it would help)… what it primarily needed was business training. As “the business expert” I had to buckle down and put together a short business training appropriate for the village level.
To be continued...
Safe and Peaceful Journeys,
-Stan
Read more!
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
Saturday, June 27, 2009
The Intro That Became Its Own Blog Entry
"Personal experience with Rwanda peace-keeping efforts..."
Note: Posting written on 6/24/2009
Dear FF&B,
I walked along after breakfast, smiling in the sunshine and eager to share my last few hours in Rwanda as only a bittersweet lover destined to move away "forever" wishes to spend his every last moment with his cherished beloved. Nothing could stop me from savoring the experience through sight, sound, smell, taste, touch, and nostalgic memory – a luxury for any wayward traveler should his departure not be scheduled too early.
As I dodged my way through taxi drivers/motorbikes/ buses, I smiled and greeted each citizen upon my trek, becoming an emanation of goodwill on behalf o all global travelers. Despite the courteous but firm declinations of talk-time/newspapers/magazines/paid transport, I felt as if every encounter was positive and understood from this cosmic perspective.
Planted into this was an individual that decided to walk about with me. Speaking part Kinyarwanda and part French, I tried to explain I could not understand him. There was much gesturing and I began to lose my sense of cosmic lightness. Let me be clear: never did I ever wonder for my personal safety, as I was not physically impeded in any way. The only slightly concerning aspect of this encounter was the placement of his hand on my forearm – not alarming for a transaction – but the grip was decidedly firm and demanding. I had experienced many "non-US" elements of interactions during my travels: draped arms around the shoulders, holding hands for an extended minute or five, etc. But this just "felt different." I was beginning to wonder when I should make my apologies and extract myself from his grip.
This whole scene took no more than 30-60 seconds. A short time... but an eternity when considering unwanted personal contact. And just as I thought that this had gone on too long – the man was forcibly separated from me with a sharp yank. A policeman walking the opposite way, who neither of us had noticed because of the interaction, assessed the situation and made a swift move of action.
Until this point, I had noticed the high visibility of policemen in Kigali and other large towns. Some are just in uniform, other even care rifles. But I never had seen up-close their interactions in keeping the peace. Despite the feeling that I could’ve handled the situation, I was thankful for the local sensitivity and concern of travelers’ discomfort.
And as quickly as my sense of cosmic peace was lost... it was restored in full once again.
Safe and Peaceful Journeys,
-Stan Read more!
Note: Posting written on 6/24/2009
Dear FF&B,
I walked along after breakfast, smiling in the sunshine and eager to share my last few hours in Rwanda as only a bittersweet lover destined to move away "forever" wishes to spend his every last moment with his cherished beloved. Nothing could stop me from savoring the experience through sight, sound, smell, taste, touch, and nostalgic memory – a luxury for any wayward traveler should his departure not be scheduled too early.
As I dodged my way through taxi drivers/motorbikes/ buses, I smiled and greeted each citizen upon my trek, becoming an emanation of goodwill on behalf o all global travelers. Despite the courteous but firm declinations of talk-time/newspapers/magazines/paid transport, I felt as if every encounter was positive and understood from this cosmic perspective.
Planted into this was an individual that decided to walk about with me. Speaking part Kinyarwanda and part French, I tried to explain I could not understand him. There was much gesturing and I began to lose my sense of cosmic lightness. Let me be clear: never did I ever wonder for my personal safety, as I was not physically impeded in any way. The only slightly concerning aspect of this encounter was the placement of his hand on my forearm – not alarming for a transaction – but the grip was decidedly firm and demanding. I had experienced many "non-US" elements of interactions during my travels: draped arms around the shoulders, holding hands for an extended minute or five, etc. But this just "felt different." I was beginning to wonder when I should make my apologies and extract myself from his grip.
This whole scene took no more than 30-60 seconds. A short time... but an eternity when considering unwanted personal contact. And just as I thought that this had gone on too long – the man was forcibly separated from me with a sharp yank. A policeman walking the opposite way, who neither of us had noticed because of the interaction, assessed the situation and made a swift move of action.
Until this point, I had noticed the high visibility of policemen in Kigali and other large towns. Some are just in uniform, other even care rifles. But I never had seen up-close their interactions in keeping the peace. Despite the feeling that I could’ve handled the situation, I was thankful for the local sensitivity and concern of travelers’ discomfort.
And as quickly as my sense of cosmic peace was lost... it was restored in full once again.
Safe and Peaceful Journeys,
-Stan Read more!
Thursday, June 25, 2009
Dumpster Diving for Information
"Most of the really good stuff can be found in the sewer..."
Note: Posting written on 6/24/2009
Dear FF&B
It's official. Vanilla Restaurant is my favorite. My only wish is we had found this place before Jess left the country (definitely an improvement on atmosphere... same omelet plus a choice of chapatti). It was only by sheer luck I found this place. Jess left yesterday morning at 2AM (she had a 4AM flight). I had a meeting at MINIFRA (the Ministry of Infrastructure) near the embassies. Since they are off in Kacyiru (a place we only had the chance to visit once before), I took a bus back to town that I didn’t usually take. And – you guessed it – the Kacyiru buses stop right in front of Vanilla. Ahh... but don’t expect all my future posts to start with a love letter to Vanilla... this is the 2nd and last time I'll be here.
********************************************************************************
If it wasn't clear from the last post, the first several days in Kigali were eye opening for me. While I cannot speak for Jessica, my experience with government workers in Lusaka last summer was a little more frustrating. To be fair, I did not find contacts until my last days in Lusaka... and everyone was busy getting ready for the 85th annual agricultural show (a BIG deal). Starting with a few meetings in Kigali was crucial. We got to hear early on what other contacts and efforts were going on in the country. And it was quite a lot!
Most of our early information came from the not-so-obvious domain of waste management. When 450 tons of waste get dumped at the only landfill for Kigali (Nyanza) AND an estimated 70% is organic material... well, there is room for collaboration and profit-making.
This is not a unilateral mental leap on my part. There are already a few cooperatives who perform waste collection services that also engage in compost and/or briquette production activities. The largest waste collection business (it converted to for-profit when tax breaks rand out in 2007/08) does not yet briquette as it is waiting for ongoing studies on briquette recipe performance to pan out, but COPED does produce compost and has instituted a waste separation pilot for its clients (upscale as they are expensive). But at least 2-3 other current cooperatives produce briquettes and another is looking for a new location so it can resume activities.
[IN PROGRESS UPDATE ON VANILLA: Had the same breakfast as yesterday -->TWICE AS GOOD! Maybe it’s because I fell asleep without dinner... but I'd better stop gushing about Vanilla now because I'm starting to blush!]
********************************************************************************
Let me back up and explain the briquettes I mention above in comparison to the MIT process. Here, organic waste (chewed sugarcane stalks, banana peels, etc.) are dried in the sun, ground into powder, and mixed with water/binder to make fuel pellets or briquettes. No carbonization needed. As a result, these pellets do smoke a lot like firewood... and a special cookstove with a chimney is encouraged to reduce inhalation.
The MIT process is similar. But after drying the organic matter, it is lit on fire and sealed into a low oxygen environment (i.e., a sealed oil drum). This low oxygen environment keeps the material from burning to ash, instead turning into charcoal. (Similar to the earthen mounds used to make wood charcoal.) Then, the material is ground and mixed into briquettes. The carbonization reduces the smoke found in the kitchen and does not require any special stove to overcome this issue.
Regardless, learning about the cooperative activities plus some other commercial briquetting firms (currently in the planning stages) did give hope to me about the financial viability of our process. In addition, policy developments call for a continued improvement in waste management services (vis-à-vis separation and recycling through COPED and a better-planned landfill), research into fuel alternatives (including briquetting recipes), and other ongoing energy programs (efficiency of using resources, efficiency through stoves, increased energy resources via methane, etc.).
******************************************************************************
The list of contacts continued to grow... but we were decidedly lacking on two fronts: agricultural specialists and specific fuel/forestry statistics. The first was important to ensure our selected supply source wasn't needed for compost. While the use of agri-waste was traditionally composted, most officials or contacts also suggested that as long as something wasn't used for another commercial use, it would be good to make into fuel. Charcoal prices are that high. But we worried about long-term soil quality and the implications on subsistence farming. Land is already at a premium (there is little-to-no new clearing for farming because the arable land is mostly taken now).
Also, fuel and forestry statistics at a regional level are not available. We're told that sectors don't report figures to districts nor districts to ministries, at least as they relate to wood cutting permissions or revenues. Only Kigali has had separate feasibility studies performed... as the economics are much bigger (150,000 tons of charcoal per year for the nation is 80-90% Kigali-based).
With our understanding of the situation as good as it would get at that point, we decided to get a move on to Gisenyi in the Rubavu District. From there, we would get to see a case study in COTRAPAE (the cooperative producing charcoal from banana leaves) and try to talk to contacts at the sector or district level.
To be continued...
Safe and Peaceful Journeys,
-Stan Read more!
Note: Posting written on 6/24/2009
Dear FF&B
It's official. Vanilla Restaurant is my favorite. My only wish is we had found this place before Jess left the country (definitely an improvement on atmosphere... same omelet plus a choice of chapatti). It was only by sheer luck I found this place. Jess left yesterday morning at 2AM (she had a 4AM flight). I had a meeting at MINIFRA (the Ministry of Infrastructure) near the embassies. Since they are off in Kacyiru (a place we only had the chance to visit once before), I took a bus back to town that I didn’t usually take. And – you guessed it – the Kacyiru buses stop right in front of Vanilla. Ahh... but don’t expect all my future posts to start with a love letter to Vanilla... this is the 2nd and last time I'll be here.
********************************************************************************
If it wasn't clear from the last post, the first several days in Kigali were eye opening for me. While I cannot speak for Jessica, my experience with government workers in Lusaka last summer was a little more frustrating. To be fair, I did not find contacts until my last days in Lusaka... and everyone was busy getting ready for the 85th annual agricultural show (a BIG deal). Starting with a few meetings in Kigali was crucial. We got to hear early on what other contacts and efforts were going on in the country. And it was quite a lot!
Most of our early information came from the not-so-obvious domain of waste management. When 450 tons of waste get dumped at the only landfill for Kigali (Nyanza) AND an estimated 70% is organic material... well, there is room for collaboration and profit-making.
This is not a unilateral mental leap on my part. There are already a few cooperatives who perform waste collection services that also engage in compost and/or briquette production activities. The largest waste collection business (it converted to for-profit when tax breaks rand out in 2007/08) does not yet briquette as it is waiting for ongoing studies on briquette recipe performance to pan out, but COPED does produce compost and has instituted a waste separation pilot for its clients (upscale as they are expensive). But at least 2-3 other current cooperatives produce briquettes and another is looking for a new location so it can resume activities.
[IN PROGRESS UPDATE ON VANILLA: Had the same breakfast as yesterday -->TWICE AS GOOD! Maybe it’s because I fell asleep without dinner... but I'd better stop gushing about Vanilla now because I'm starting to blush!]
********************************************************************************
Let me back up and explain the briquettes I mention above in comparison to the MIT process. Here, organic waste (chewed sugarcane stalks, banana peels, etc.) are dried in the sun, ground into powder, and mixed with water/binder to make fuel pellets or briquettes. No carbonization needed. As a result, these pellets do smoke a lot like firewood... and a special cookstove with a chimney is encouraged to reduce inhalation.
The MIT process is similar. But after drying the organic matter, it is lit on fire and sealed into a low oxygen environment (i.e., a sealed oil drum). This low oxygen environment keeps the material from burning to ash, instead turning into charcoal. (Similar to the earthen mounds used to make wood charcoal.) Then, the material is ground and mixed into briquettes. The carbonization reduces the smoke found in the kitchen and does not require any special stove to overcome this issue.
Regardless, learning about the cooperative activities plus some other commercial briquetting firms (currently in the planning stages) did give hope to me about the financial viability of our process. In addition, policy developments call for a continued improvement in waste management services (vis-à-vis separation and recycling through COPED and a better-planned landfill), research into fuel alternatives (including briquetting recipes), and other ongoing energy programs (efficiency of using resources, efficiency through stoves, increased energy resources via methane, etc.).
******************************************************************************
The list of contacts continued to grow... but we were decidedly lacking on two fronts: agricultural specialists and specific fuel/forestry statistics. The first was important to ensure our selected supply source wasn't needed for compost. While the use of agri-waste was traditionally composted, most officials or contacts also suggested that as long as something wasn't used for another commercial use, it would be good to make into fuel. Charcoal prices are that high. But we worried about long-term soil quality and the implications on subsistence farming. Land is already at a premium (there is little-to-no new clearing for farming because the arable land is mostly taken now).
Also, fuel and forestry statistics at a regional level are not available. We're told that sectors don't report figures to districts nor districts to ministries, at least as they relate to wood cutting permissions or revenues. Only Kigali has had separate feasibility studies performed... as the economics are much bigger (150,000 tons of charcoal per year for the nation is 80-90% Kigali-based).
With our understanding of the situation as good as it would get at that point, we decided to get a move on to Gisenyi in the Rubavu District. From there, we would get to see a case study in COTRAPAE (the cooperative producing charcoal from banana leaves) and try to talk to contacts at the sector or district level.
To be continued...
Safe and Peaceful Journeys,
-Stan Read more!
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Staring into the Reflection Pool of Time
"At the end, there is really just the beginning..."
Dear FF&B,
By far my favorite breakfast place has got to be Vanilla Restaurant. Eggs are cheapish, chai reasonable, and chapatti downright cheap. In fact, my one chapatti was cooked right into my omelet… a right tasty and substantial meal. But the best part is the down-to-earth ambiance. The size and intimacy of the staff feels like you’re in someone’s home. It just feels like family. I makes me want to jump up and help in the kitchen or learn how to make something new...
Now back to my program:
I’ve always found that new cultural experiences take a while to process and sink in before you can write about them. Today is my 33rd day in Rwanda – my last full day. As I sit here in the Mzungu-laden Union Trade Centre hammering out some practical emails, I can’t help but think about how much this research project has changed over the past 4 weeks, or remember the inevitable newness, confusion, and excitement that come with the start of a new project.
Yes, I have some follow-up calls and emails... but this is it. And what better way to wrap up a trip than to reflect on the beginning?
**************************************************************************
I arrived in Kigali after 30+ hours of travel from San Francisco. With considerable layovers in both Amsterdam and Nairobi, I arrived at my hotel feeling okay... but fairly tired and worn out: I fell asleep for a couple hours and almost missed my dinner appointment!
I had pre-arranged for my lodging through my translator (also arranged via email through my in-country contact’s niece). It turns out that my translator was also distant family and had put me up in a place that was only a couple months old. It was very clean and surprisingly had free WiFi... but it was just a tad out of the way: 20 minute walk to the taxi-bus station, and another 30 minute ride to downtown (20 min with no traffic or stops). Nevertheless, we stayed there for most of the first week. Besides, I had a couple days of market surveys before Jessica even arrived... so there was no need to be right in downtown. As we would find out, few affordable restaurants stay open for dinner anywhere we visited – with the notable exception of Butare (which holds the national university and functions like a typical college town).
One of the first things I noticed was the public transportation system. Compared to my only experience in Lusaka where mini-buses were prevalent but the system did not seem as extensive and was much more expensive. Here, you can take a mini-bus for 150 francs from Kimironko to Mimuji (Kinyarwanda for "(down)town") – somewhere between 25 to 30 cents for the 20-30 minute ride. On a good day in Lusaka, you could do the 7 minute ride from Alpha Bar to Arcades for 1,000 (33 cents)... but more often you would be charged 2,000 if you are a Mzungu. Here in Kigali, the taxi-bus fares are standard and it is one of the few places where I did not need to barter for the fare beforehand (as opposed to the rest of Rwanda or anywhere in Zambia). So let me assure you what a relief it is when I had a meeting on my last day in Kigali and could finally stop being suspicious of exactly how much I was being overcharged or should try to negotiate down!
After Jessica arrived here in Kigali, we began work in earnest through a myriad of interviews with environmentalists, development workers, professors and students, and a long host of bureaucrats who worked in agriculture, energy, environment, forestry and other natural resources, technology development, and even waste management. We also found time to meet one cooperative who was doing waste collection and briquetting organic waste into energy pellets. With each meeting, we would start to form a picture of the different organizations that were working the area, the latest energy development ideas, and the sense of large production that pervaded Kigali. Even the more peri-urban/semirural cooperative was working with automated machinery to grind and briquette their organic mass! With each meeting, we would ask for not only background history and current developments, but also relevant statistics, plans, financial figures... and ALWAYS contacts, contacts, contacts. Most of the time, meetings could be arranged on one day’s notice (or less), and we got a surprising amount of understanding for only three and one-half days of the workweek.
Now, there is something about Kigali that reminds me of San Francisco. Perhaps it’s the fact that it is a city of hills. Or the quick-changing weather that may be third-degree hot at one point, and overcast/rainy 15 minutes later. Perhaps I best described it in one aborted entry from May 30:
During our first week, we were in a variety of meetings and meet in the evening with UNDP. Earlier in the day it had been roasting hot and neither of us had brought a poncho or umbrella. Sometime during the 90 minute meeting, I heard the pitter patter start... but having seen some small drizzles start and stop before, I hoped it would peter out. Unfortunately, the rain was steady when we left. Being far from the hotel... but wanting to get into more comfortable clothes (we had been in meetings and on the go for about 11 hours straight), we decided to take the walk back. Sometime in the next 5 minutes, the steady rain turned into a downpour, and we were so soaked we couldn’t do anything but laugh and continue on. No one else was on the roads. Everyone took cover in awnings and doorways, staring at us like some deranged school kids who couldn’t stop giggling at their "mis"fortune.
Here are some other highlights from May 22 – May 28:
I suppose there were many other smaller moments. Everyone seemed to be so friendly... even when they couldn’t understand a word of what we said. But we did not even have to use a translator every day as more than half of the bureaucrats and other contacts could speak decent enough English to be productive.
**************************************************************************
And with that, I must begin to prepare for the journey home. Look forward to more when I return State-side. And please feel free to send in your thoughts or requests!
Safe and Peaceful Journeys,
-Stan
P.S. I will try to post some pictures to go along with these blogs when I safely land in the States. Read more!
Dear FF&B,
By far my favorite breakfast place has got to be Vanilla Restaurant. Eggs are cheapish, chai reasonable, and chapatti downright cheap. In fact, my one chapatti was cooked right into my omelet… a right tasty and substantial meal. But the best part is the down-to-earth ambiance. The size and intimacy of the staff feels like you’re in someone’s home. It just feels like family. I makes me want to jump up and help in the kitchen or learn how to make something new...
Now back to my program:
I’ve always found that new cultural experiences take a while to process and sink in before you can write about them. Today is my 33rd day in Rwanda – my last full day. As I sit here in the Mzungu-laden Union Trade Centre hammering out some practical emails, I can’t help but think about how much this research project has changed over the past 4 weeks, or remember the inevitable newness, confusion, and excitement that come with the start of a new project.
Yes, I have some follow-up calls and emails... but this is it. And what better way to wrap up a trip than to reflect on the beginning?
**************************************************************************
I arrived in Kigali after 30+ hours of travel from San Francisco. With considerable layovers in both Amsterdam and Nairobi, I arrived at my hotel feeling okay... but fairly tired and worn out: I fell asleep for a couple hours and almost missed my dinner appointment!
I had pre-arranged for my lodging through my translator (also arranged via email through my in-country contact’s niece). It turns out that my translator was also distant family and had put me up in a place that was only a couple months old. It was very clean and surprisingly had free WiFi... but it was just a tad out of the way: 20 minute walk to the taxi-bus station, and another 30 minute ride to downtown (20 min with no traffic or stops). Nevertheless, we stayed there for most of the first week. Besides, I had a couple days of market surveys before Jessica even arrived... so there was no need to be right in downtown. As we would find out, few affordable restaurants stay open for dinner anywhere we visited – with the notable exception of Butare (which holds the national university and functions like a typical college town).
One of the first things I noticed was the public transportation system. Compared to my only experience in Lusaka where mini-buses were prevalent but the system did not seem as extensive and was much more expensive. Here, you can take a mini-bus for 150 francs from Kimironko to Mimuji (Kinyarwanda for "(down)town") – somewhere between 25 to 30 cents for the 20-30 minute ride. On a good day in Lusaka, you could do the 7 minute ride from Alpha Bar to Arcades for 1,000 (33 cents)... but more often you would be charged 2,000 if you are a Mzungu. Here in Kigali, the taxi-bus fares are standard and it is one of the few places where I did not need to barter for the fare beforehand (as opposed to the rest of Rwanda or anywhere in Zambia). So let me assure you what a relief it is when I had a meeting on my last day in Kigali and could finally stop being suspicious of exactly how much I was being overcharged or should try to negotiate down!
After Jessica arrived here in Kigali, we began work in earnest through a myriad of interviews with environmentalists, development workers, professors and students, and a long host of bureaucrats who worked in agriculture, energy, environment, forestry and other natural resources, technology development, and even waste management. We also found time to meet one cooperative who was doing waste collection and briquetting organic waste into energy pellets. With each meeting, we would start to form a picture of the different organizations that were working the area, the latest energy development ideas, and the sense of large production that pervaded Kigali. Even the more peri-urban/semirural cooperative was working with automated machinery to grind and briquette their organic mass! With each meeting, we would ask for not only background history and current developments, but also relevant statistics, plans, financial figures... and ALWAYS contacts, contacts, contacts. Most of the time, meetings could be arranged on one day’s notice (or less), and we got a surprising amount of understanding for only three and one-half days of the workweek.
Now, there is something about Kigali that reminds me of San Francisco. Perhaps it’s the fact that it is a city of hills. Or the quick-changing weather that may be third-degree hot at one point, and overcast/rainy 15 minutes later. Perhaps I best described it in one aborted entry from May 30:
"Kigali is beautiful. Since arriving one week ago I have marveled at the green spaces, hillside panoramas, and sense of peace and security when walking at night. Each time I turn a corner, I get a new perspective of this town."
During our first week, we were in a variety of meetings and meet in the evening with UNDP. Earlier in the day it had been roasting hot and neither of us had brought a poncho or umbrella. Sometime during the 90 minute meeting, I heard the pitter patter start... but having seen some small drizzles start and stop before, I hoped it would peter out. Unfortunately, the rain was steady when we left. Being far from the hotel... but wanting to get into more comfortable clothes (we had been in meetings and on the go for about 11 hours straight), we decided to take the walk back. Sometime in the next 5 minutes, the steady rain turned into a downpour, and we were so soaked we couldn’t do anything but laugh and continue on. No one else was on the roads. Everyone took cover in awnings and doorways, staring at us like some deranged school kids who couldn’t stop giggling at their "mis"fortune.
Here are some other highlights from May 22 – May 28:
- Touring the briquetting cooperative. Even though the machine wasn’t working at the time, you could tell the potential for serious volume. As a business student, I was happy to see that the possibility of profit was associated with this kind of alternative energy production. I just had questions about whether it could be done in a low-tech, small volume scenario.
- Learning some of my best Kinyarwanda. While I may have learned more in the rural areas that spoke less English, the very basics were practiced every day from the start. Muraho (hello), mwiliwe (hello/good day), amakuru (how are you?), murakoze (thank you)... these are the staples to any greeting or interaction and I learned them well. A more extensive explanation of words may come in a separate entry.
- Attending the first annual Environmental Health Conference. We didn’t go for long, but were welcomed to participate in the break-out sessions prior to lunch (on the day we left for Gisenyi). Some good friends of one of Jess’ MIT contacts were attending and we learned how small but close-knit the newly-formed environmental health sector was (most working at far-flung NGOs and helping each other get jobs).
- Losing my hat and running out of sunscreen in the very first week! The first was an oversight when leaving a taxi bus, the second was due to my quick departure State-side... and not realizing how unavailable sunscreen would be in Rwanda (nothing available more than 6 SPF – which I finally got two weeks later!) Dear friends, fear not... I am not the crispy lobster you come to expect in these circumstances... but it’s been challenging!
I suppose there were many other smaller moments. Everyone seemed to be so friendly... even when they couldn’t understand a word of what we said. But we did not even have to use a translator every day as more than half of the bureaucrats and other contacts could speak decent enough English to be productive.
**************************************************************************
And with that, I must begin to prepare for the journey home. Look forward to more when I return State-side. And please feel free to send in your thoughts or requests!
Safe and Peaceful Journeys,
-Stan
P.S. I will try to post some pictures to go along with these blogs when I safely land in the States. Read more!
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
Tuning in to Last Summer’s Regularly Scheduled Program
"I’m having 80’s flashbacks… or is it just Ryan’s in Africa again?”
Dear Family, Friends and Blog-Readers (FF&B),
For those you just tuning into this program for the first time, this sight was a well-conceived (if ill-executed) attempt to keep everyone updated on my exploits across the Atlantic last summer. Well, since I am back again for another incredible experience, I thought I’d reuse the blogsite and try to update everyone once per week… (oops, too late!). Feel free to peruse my *ahem* monthly postings from last summer. For my returning readers… welcome back (and bless you dear sirs and madams)!!
For those of you who have no idea what I’m hinting at, I'll back up:
Most of you know by now, but I’m currently conducting research in Rwanda. The goal is to determine the market feasibility for an agricultural waste-based charcoal (think banana leaves or corn cobs). The idea is to convert natural byproducts from subsistence farming or food manufacturing (not already being used for fertilizer) into an alternative fuel. The goal: save trees and improve incomes by making a business out of it (hence my involvement). The technology for making the charcoal is from MIT (where my classmate and in-country research partner, Jessica, studied before)… and the goal is to sell the briquetters or perhaps the charcoal directly. But as you will see from my planned posts, it isn’t always so easy to figure out how that is best done.
As we are now in the “wrap-up” section of the program (by that I mean we are in our last week), my posts will be structured as weekly recaps and highlights – both on cultural and research experiences. However, instead of kicking it off with Week 1, I thought I’d leave you with some thoughts after finally visiting the National Genocide Memorial last weekend.
For those of you who have traveled to developing countries, it is easy to imagine the hunger and desperation that may exist on any village roadside or city market. Those without the fortune of daily jobs (and here day laborers earn less than $2/day in the sections outside of Kigali) find begging from tourists an easy means of supplementing their income (and who can blame them?).
But there are a few countries that have had traumatic events in their past so widespread that you can literally see the signs flitting across the national consciousness or in your everyday interactions. Two summers ago, I encountered this for the first time in Cambodia. The devastation of Pol Pot’s regime beginning with Year Zero, the forced work migrations, and highly systematized massacres left a generation of children without fathers or mothers, depleted the intellectual resources of a nation, and left a host of amputees and starving individuals who struggled to survive (especially because there were so many of them). At Angkor Wat, these individuals would not only ask if you wanted to buy a book/scarf/postcard/necklace/shirt/figurine as you walked around… they would approach you at lunch (where you are trapped by your food) and as long as you talk to them at all (most people don’t even respond) would continue to ask you until you said “maybe” and then tell you that you said “you said yes.” Or if you buy one item, they will ask if you need more for “your sister, your mother, your brother, your father, your girlfriend…” All this behavior might be best explained by the simple fact that there were more vendors at Angkor Wat than travelers – the desperation for a single sale is that palpable.
I share this reverie about Cambodia because it is the only true comparison to my experience here in Rwanda. I have not been able to visit a Holocaust memorial, and my experience in Japan is the powerful illustration at the Hiroshima Peace Memorial – but I did not see this event etched onto the faces of the people I met during my travels.
The National Genocide Memorial itself is a collection of gardens, mass graves, and three series of exhibits within the building that also serves as an educational center for genocide prevention, all of which officially opened in 2004 on the 10th anniversary of the genocide. The day was hot… so we started with a tour of the interior exhibits, which consisted of:
1) a history of the genocide (including events that lead up to the genocide, the genocide itself, and the aftermath);
2) other similar events throughout the world during this century; and
3) a special focus on children of Rwanda who died during the genocide.
The exhibits are translated into Kinyarwanda, French, and English. We also opted for the English audio tour (helpful, and includes some different details at certain exhibits… but not necessary as the exhibits themselves usually had more detail than the audio tour). During this somber tour, I did not take any pictures (sorry Christina) or notes, but opted instead for fully engaging with the emotional experience of the memorial. While some of you may be curious about the details of the exhibits, I would not be able to do them full justice (and am fairly sure there are more accurate accounts written in books than my memory). But I can say that it was truly emotional as the exhibits used a full range of techniques beyond the typical arrangement of illustrative photos and facts, including displays of artifacts, a room full of individual photos, and extensive use of video that helped personalize the event.
By the end of the tour within the building, I was already emotionally spent. At this point, we opted to skip most of the symbolic gardens (that represented unity, division, reconciliation and other themes), but made sure to take a long, respectful walk amongst the mass graves and the Wall of Names (which details identified remains within the mass graves but is far from completion as the research continues on).
In terms of what I have seen here on the faces of the individuals I meet, there are the visible signs of amputees, broken or partial families, and resettled villages. On the one hand, there is no single display of mass desperation such as what I felt at Angkor Wat… but there is a sizable portion of the population throughout the entire country that has been obviously affected by this event. Our work with one cooperative is from a resettled village where work becomes more difficult because they own no land. During surveys, I came across one woman who openly spoke about a husband that fled during the genocide and was still missing, but that she would never know if he was still alive and still hoped for his return.
Despite these visible scars, the genocide is rarely talked about. During one survey, my translator pointed out a woman who was Twa (the local pygmy population that were the original inhabitants of Rwanda and apparently mostly live in the bush or remote areas). As I did not know about this third ethnic population, I began to ask about the Hutu and Tutsi… but my translator quickly told me that this is not spoken about openly. Also, during my first full day in Rwanda, I walked around another translator as we talked about how peaceful and safe Rwanda feels. (I can attest – while I had my wallet stolen twice in Lusaka, Zambia last summer… mainly where tourists could be targets, I have not even felt the least bit unsafe when walking down a very dark and mostly deserted street in the pitch dark anywhere in Rwanda.) Titi (my translator’s nickname) pointed out that the recent history of the genocide taught people how important amahoro (peace) is, regardless of the daily difficulties of poverty or hunger. This all points to a country that consciously tries to heal its divisions for the betterment of all.
But I will also share two discussions in the past day or two that taught me the picture is more complicated than that. On Tuesday, I randomly met one Rwandan/American (dual citizenship) named Pascale. We talked a lot about business and personal lives… but he also strayed into politics as it related to Rwanda’s recent history. In particular, he asked me about America’s commitment to democracy and what I would do (were I the President) if that democracy put in power a majority that had resorted to violence when the minority government had demonstrated peace and reconciliation. On the one hand, he seemed to be partially worried about upcoming elections. We debated about how the recent government was democratically elected and whether that was likely to change in the near term. During the discussion we agreed that the situation was much more complicated than events from the last 15 or so years, and that giving a voice to the majority was also important. But it just goes to show that the results of those events are still etched onto part of the population’s current concerns.
Later that night, I had a chance to meet up with two friends where talked ranged again from business to personal lives to the resettlement villages. In particular, Jess and I have been struggling with how to work sustainably in areas that have a so called “charity model” – individuals, NGOs, and other benefactors give help to survivors so they may be able to improve their livelihoods, but in doing so may increase the sense of entitlement or expectation of future donations and at the same time weaken their sense of ownership over their new possessions. One friend in particular even suggested that the way the government has also given away things to this group of people has contributed to the problem. During our discussion, we talked about how ways to help survivors improve their livelihoods was important, but the structure of help (donations versus microcredit, equipment and possessions versus knowledge) could be just as important in helping them maintain their drive and the long-term sustainability of their new activities. Because… what would happen if the donations were to dry up tomorrow?
All these issues are particularly sensitive to talk about with Rwandans… and to share. I don’t pretend to know more than the next development worker or student… and especially any Rwandan (as I am still learning about the history and culture). But these are complex issues that are highly emotional which we can only hope to be part of the solution (rather than an exacerbating contributor to the problem). I would love to hear your thoughts and experiences.
In the meantime, I wish you all love and peace.
Safe and Peaceful Journeys,
-Stan Read more!
Dear Family, Friends and Blog-Readers (FF&B),
For those you just tuning into this program for the first time, this sight was a well-conceived (if ill-executed) attempt to keep everyone updated on my exploits across the Atlantic last summer. Well, since I am back again for another incredible experience, I thought I’d reuse the blogsite and try to update everyone once per week… (oops, too late!). Feel free to peruse my *ahem* monthly postings from last summer. For my returning readers… welcome back (and bless you dear sirs and madams)!!
For those of you who have no idea what I’m hinting at, I'll back up:
Most of you know by now, but I’m currently conducting research in Rwanda. The goal is to determine the market feasibility for an agricultural waste-based charcoal (think banana leaves or corn cobs). The idea is to convert natural byproducts from subsistence farming or food manufacturing (not already being used for fertilizer) into an alternative fuel. The goal: save trees and improve incomes by making a business out of it (hence my involvement). The technology for making the charcoal is from MIT (where my classmate and in-country research partner, Jessica, studied before)… and the goal is to sell the briquetters or perhaps the charcoal directly. But as you will see from my planned posts, it isn’t always so easy to figure out how that is best done.
As we are now in the “wrap-up” section of the program (by that I mean we are in our last week), my posts will be structured as weekly recaps and highlights – both on cultural and research experiences. However, instead of kicking it off with Week 1, I thought I’d leave you with some thoughts after finally visiting the National Genocide Memorial last weekend.
For those of you who have traveled to developing countries, it is easy to imagine the hunger and desperation that may exist on any village roadside or city market. Those without the fortune of daily jobs (and here day laborers earn less than $2/day in the sections outside of Kigali) find begging from tourists an easy means of supplementing their income (and who can blame them?).
But there are a few countries that have had traumatic events in their past so widespread that you can literally see the signs flitting across the national consciousness or in your everyday interactions. Two summers ago, I encountered this for the first time in Cambodia. The devastation of Pol Pot’s regime beginning with Year Zero, the forced work migrations, and highly systematized massacres left a generation of children without fathers or mothers, depleted the intellectual resources of a nation, and left a host of amputees and starving individuals who struggled to survive (especially because there were so many of them). At Angkor Wat, these individuals would not only ask if you wanted to buy a book/scarf/postcard/necklace/shirt/figurine as you walked around… they would approach you at lunch (where you are trapped by your food) and as long as you talk to them at all (most people don’t even respond) would continue to ask you until you said “maybe” and then tell you that you said “you said yes.” Or if you buy one item, they will ask if you need more for “your sister, your mother, your brother, your father, your girlfriend…” All this behavior might be best explained by the simple fact that there were more vendors at Angkor Wat than travelers – the desperation for a single sale is that palpable.
I share this reverie about Cambodia because it is the only true comparison to my experience here in Rwanda. I have not been able to visit a Holocaust memorial, and my experience in Japan is the powerful illustration at the Hiroshima Peace Memorial – but I did not see this event etched onto the faces of the people I met during my travels.
The National Genocide Memorial itself is a collection of gardens, mass graves, and three series of exhibits within the building that also serves as an educational center for genocide prevention, all of which officially opened in 2004 on the 10th anniversary of the genocide. The day was hot… so we started with a tour of the interior exhibits, which consisted of:
1) a history of the genocide (including events that lead up to the genocide, the genocide itself, and the aftermath);
2) other similar events throughout the world during this century; and
3) a special focus on children of Rwanda who died during the genocide.
The exhibits are translated into Kinyarwanda, French, and English. We also opted for the English audio tour (helpful, and includes some different details at certain exhibits… but not necessary as the exhibits themselves usually had more detail than the audio tour). During this somber tour, I did not take any pictures (sorry Christina) or notes, but opted instead for fully engaging with the emotional experience of the memorial. While some of you may be curious about the details of the exhibits, I would not be able to do them full justice (and am fairly sure there are more accurate accounts written in books than my memory). But I can say that it was truly emotional as the exhibits used a full range of techniques beyond the typical arrangement of illustrative photos and facts, including displays of artifacts, a room full of individual photos, and extensive use of video that helped personalize the event.
By the end of the tour within the building, I was already emotionally spent. At this point, we opted to skip most of the symbolic gardens (that represented unity, division, reconciliation and other themes), but made sure to take a long, respectful walk amongst the mass graves and the Wall of Names (which details identified remains within the mass graves but is far from completion as the research continues on).
In terms of what I have seen here on the faces of the individuals I meet, there are the visible signs of amputees, broken or partial families, and resettled villages. On the one hand, there is no single display of mass desperation such as what I felt at Angkor Wat… but there is a sizable portion of the population throughout the entire country that has been obviously affected by this event. Our work with one cooperative is from a resettled village where work becomes more difficult because they own no land. During surveys, I came across one woman who openly spoke about a husband that fled during the genocide and was still missing, but that she would never know if he was still alive and still hoped for his return.
Despite these visible scars, the genocide is rarely talked about. During one survey, my translator pointed out a woman who was Twa (the local pygmy population that were the original inhabitants of Rwanda and apparently mostly live in the bush or remote areas). As I did not know about this third ethnic population, I began to ask about the Hutu and Tutsi… but my translator quickly told me that this is not spoken about openly. Also, during my first full day in Rwanda, I walked around another translator as we talked about how peaceful and safe Rwanda feels. (I can attest – while I had my wallet stolen twice in Lusaka, Zambia last summer… mainly where tourists could be targets, I have not even felt the least bit unsafe when walking down a very dark and mostly deserted street in the pitch dark anywhere in Rwanda.) Titi (my translator’s nickname) pointed out that the recent history of the genocide taught people how important amahoro (peace) is, regardless of the daily difficulties of poverty or hunger. This all points to a country that consciously tries to heal its divisions for the betterment of all.
But I will also share two discussions in the past day or two that taught me the picture is more complicated than that. On Tuesday, I randomly met one Rwandan/American (dual citizenship) named Pascale. We talked a lot about business and personal lives… but he also strayed into politics as it related to Rwanda’s recent history. In particular, he asked me about America’s commitment to democracy and what I would do (were I the President) if that democracy put in power a majority that had resorted to violence when the minority government had demonstrated peace and reconciliation. On the one hand, he seemed to be partially worried about upcoming elections. We debated about how the recent government was democratically elected and whether that was likely to change in the near term. During the discussion we agreed that the situation was much more complicated than events from the last 15 or so years, and that giving a voice to the majority was also important. But it just goes to show that the results of those events are still etched onto part of the population’s current concerns.
Later that night, I had a chance to meet up with two friends where talked ranged again from business to personal lives to the resettlement villages. In particular, Jess and I have been struggling with how to work sustainably in areas that have a so called “charity model” – individuals, NGOs, and other benefactors give help to survivors so they may be able to improve their livelihoods, but in doing so may increase the sense of entitlement or expectation of future donations and at the same time weaken their sense of ownership over their new possessions. One friend in particular even suggested that the way the government has also given away things to this group of people has contributed to the problem. During our discussion, we talked about how ways to help survivors improve their livelihoods was important, but the structure of help (donations versus microcredit, equipment and possessions versus knowledge) could be just as important in helping them maintain their drive and the long-term sustainability of their new activities. Because… what would happen if the donations were to dry up tomorrow?
All these issues are particularly sensitive to talk about with Rwandans… and to share. I don’t pretend to know more than the next development worker or student… and especially any Rwandan (as I am still learning about the history and culture). But these are complex issues that are highly emotional which we can only hope to be part of the solution (rather than an exacerbating contributor to the problem). I would love to hear your thoughts and experiences.
In the meantime, I wish you all love and peace.
Safe and Peaceful Journeys,
-Stan Read more!
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